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The Stout Palace Home Welcome Club Photos Membership & Bylaws About The Stout Palace Leagues, Clubs & Associations Supporters, Sponsors, & Links Contact Form Calander The Stout Palace For The Love of Homebrewing Brew Stand Published October 1, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 We had to cut the winscreen for air it works great This was a blast to build Posted in General Beer Related New Update from meeting Published June 18, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Ok so we Bear Creek Home and Rouge Brewers we be come Southers Oregon Homebrew. we will merge the two clubs to gather more info about B.J.C.P.classes, Clube brews, Event Brew and a lot more. So this would be a good time to join the new Club. Southers Oregon Homebrew Posted in General Beer Related Jeff`s Big Brew Results Published June 2, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 we have the results from jeff`s Big Brew Best Of Show Dennis Dye Irish Cream Stout Bear Creek Home Douge Bear Creek Home People`s Chose Jeff Clarke Dry Stout Hellgate Homebrews Bichard Bush Hellgate Homebrews Steve Ferrell Hellgate Homebrews Devin Thiele Rouge Valley Homebrews Kegs On Hand 1 Dennis Dye Irish Cream Stout BJCP Score 38 2 Dennis Dye Irish Cream Stout BJCP Score 37 3 Jeff Clarke Dry Stout BJCP Score 36 4 Lomont Dunkel Weisse Bjcp Score 31 Posted in General Beer Related june 1 Jeff Big Brew Published May 25, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Jeff brew If you have not been to a brew event this is the event that you need to go to Last year we had about 11-12 brewers 20# Smoked ribs this year we have new trophy`s and about 30# lb. I don`t know what beer I will brew but I will brew something Posted in General Beer Related Rally Your Homebrew Club at Falling Sky Published May 14, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Sunday, June 1, 2014 Time: 1:00 pm – 4:00 pm Address: 1334 Oak Alley, Eugene, OR, 97401 Web: Falling Sky AHA Rally Space is limited, please encourage your club members to RSVP on the AHA website AHA Rallies are free to current AHA members. Non-members and expired members can join now or sign up at a discounted rate at the door. If your homebrew club is interested in participating in the Falling Sky AHA Rally, please contact me right away! Cheers! Matt Bolling Events & Membership Coordinator Ideas for Interested Clubs: ? Set up a booth to promote your club ? Hand out flyers, sticker, or cards at the Rally to recruit new members in the area ? Partner with other participating homebrew shops and clubs ? Donate club schwag to the Rally raffle— all attendees have the chance to win prizes ? Print off the Falling Sky AHA Rally poster to hang in your clubhouse http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/Falling-Sky-Poster.pdf Posted in General Beer Related University of California Published May 14, 2014 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Hello, My name is Adam Evans and I am a member of a group of graduate students at the University of California, San Diego conducting research on the Home Brewing Market. We obtained your groups’ contact information from the Home Brewers Association website and would like to ask if your club would be willing to participate in a survey by answering a few questions found by following the below link. Please forward this request to the members of your Home Brewers club. Your answers would be very helpful in our research and we would appreciate your time. http://rady.qualtrics.com/SE/?SID=SV_3KliyTVDUoVZxLD thank you, Adam Evans Posted in General Beer Related BeerSmith Home Brewing News Published February 5, 2013 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Decoction Mashing for Beer Recipes Decoction mashing is a great way to enhance the flavor and clarity of your all grain beer recipes, and requires only minimal additional equipment and time. Few homebrewers use decoction mashing in their recipes, but it is a very powerful technique for enhancing many styles of beer. This week we’re going to demystify decoction mashing so you can add it to your arsenal of homebrewing tools. Decoction mashing involves nothing more than extracting a fraction of your mash mixture and bringing that portion to a boil in a separate vessel. Then the boiling wort is added back to the original wort to raise the temperature of the entire mixture for the next mash step. All that is required is a separate smaller pot and heat source. History of Decoction Mashing Decoction mashing predates common use of the thermometer. In those early days, it was difficult to achieve accurate infusion temperatures for today’s infusion mash, and also malts were undermodified compared to the highly modified malt we have today. Brewers instead discovered by trial and error that if they extracted a fixed fraction of the mash and boiled it they could achieve the accurate temperature steps needed to mash their malts. Decoction was used extensitvely in continental European recipes, and is still heavily used in many German and Bohemian styles. Many commercial brewers today use decoction mashing as well because it results in higher extraction rates and also maximum extraction of flavor from the malt. Why use Decoction Mashing The first thing most all grain brewers learn is that they should not overheat their mash or they will risk killing off the enzymes needed to convert sugars, effectively stopping conversion. Yet in a strange paradox, decoction mashing actually results in higher conversion rates than infusion mashing. In fact, decoction mashing has a number of benefits (Ref: FAQ): Boiling extracts maximal flavor from the malt, which can be a real advantage for many malty styles of beer including most German beer styles. Boiling the mash destroys the grain cell walls, releasing additional enzymes for conversion and resulting in a higher extract conversion rate than infusion mashing. Boiling wort will carmelize a portion of it, again enhancing the malty flavor of the beer. Proteins in the mash tend to coagulate during the boil and are filtered out during lauter resulting in better clarity. At the same time, some care must be taken while using the decoction method. Decoction does take longer than a single infusion mash. When heating the decocted fraction, you need to monitor it to avoid scorching the mash. Safety is a concern when handling large quantities of hot wort, and you must be careful not to splash the wort to avoid hot side aeration. The Decoction Method All decoction mashes start with a single infusion step where hot water is added to the mash to start the mashing process. Typical temperatures for the first step vary. Multiple step decoctions are often used. Some examples of steps include: 95F (35C) – Acid and Glucanese rest – to break down gummy solids (glucose) and lower pH of the mash for undermodified malts 127F (52C) – Protein rest 145F-153F (63-67C) – Beta Amalyse Rest 158-167F (72-75C) – Alpha Amalyse Rest Decoction mash profiles may have one, two or even three decoctions. When selecting a decoction profile, keep in mind that many of the traditional multi-step decoction methods were designed for undermodified malts as opposed to modern modified malts. However, multiple step decoction methods will add a unique character and flavor to your beer. The amount of water used in a decoction can vary tremendously. Traditional infusion mashes and many modern decoction methods use a relatively thick ratio of 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound of grain. Older decoction mash profiles often used much higher water to grain ratios – as high as 2 or even 3 quarts per pound of grain. Slightly higher conversion rates are possible at the lower ratios, but some purists still use the higher traditional ratios to reduce the chance of scorching. You also need to consider what will fit in your mash tun and boil pot. The initial strike water is calculated as if it was a normal infusion, and can be done using the BeerSmith strike temperature tool or an online calculator. Typically the first infusion targets either 95F (an acid rest) or 127F (a protein rest). After the infusion step, a fraction of the mash is decocted (drawn) and put in a separate pot to be slowly heated to a boil. Some people argue whether the thin part of the mash or thick part should be drawn. I generally try to get a representative sample of the mash, including both grains and wort. Calculating the fraction of the mash to decoct can be easily done. A program like BeerSmith has both a separate tool for calculating decoctions and an integrated mash profile system that lets you simply select a decoction mash profile and automatically calculates the fractions and provides step by step mashing instructions. Alternately, a quick google search will provide you with online decoction calculators. If you prefer doing it by hand, this article recommends the following fraction: F = (TS – TI) / (TB – TI – X) Where f is the fraction, TS is the target step temperature, TI is the initial (current) temperature, TB is the temperature of the boiling mash and X is an equipment dependent parameter (typically 18F or 10C). Care must be taken when boiling the mash to avoid scorching. Mix the mash continuously and heat it gently. Once the decoction starts to boil you can add it back to the original mash and mix thoroughly to achieve the next step. Hold each step for the recommended time, much as you would with any infusion mash and continue with additional decoctions or sparging. Finally, if you are using a decoction to achieve mash out temperature (usually around 178F target temperature), you need to draw only the liquid portion of the mash as mashing out with a large portion of grains can result in undesirable flavors. Thank you again for your continued support! Brad Smith BeerSmith.com Follow BeerSmith on Twitter and Facebook Posted in Upcoming Events Ten Top Tips for Home Brewing Beer Published November 2, 2011 | By Dennis 1/12/12 Use High Quality, Fresh Ingredients – Fresh ingredients make better homebrew. If you started with dry yeast, move up to liquid yeast. If you are an extract brewer, look for fresh extract rather than a can that is several years old. Store liquid yeast in the refrigerator, grains in a cool dry place, and hops in the freezer. Hops, dry malt, yeast, liquid malt and crushed grains all have a limited shelf life and must be used quickly. Crushed grains, dry malt and liquid malt will oxidize over time. Do your Homework – Designing great beer is one part science and one part art. Why guess on the science part? Switching to brewing software like BeerSmith can make a difference in your brewing as it gives you the opportunity to calculate the color, bitterness and original gravity up front to match your brewing style. As I brewed more, I started reading top brewing books, engaging in discussion forums and browsing the internet for brewing resources. All of these sources, combined with experience and experimentation dramatically impacted my brewing style and consistency in a search for brewing perfection. Keep It Sterile – Anything that touches your beer after it has started cooling must be sanitized using any of the popular sanitizing solutions (bleach, iodophor, etc). The period immediately after you cool your beer is particularly critical as bacteria and other infections are most likely to take hold before the yeast has started fermentation. Cool the Wort Quickly – Cooling your beer quickly will increase the fallout of proteins and tannins that are bad for your beer and will also reduce the chance of infection. An immersion wort chiller is a relatively inexpensive investment that will improve the clarity and quality of your beer. Cooling is particularly important for full batch boils. Boil for 60-90 Minutes – Boiling your wort performs several important functions. It sterilizes your wort, vaporizes many undesirable compounds, releases bittering oils from the hops and coagulates proteins and tannins from the grains so they can fall out during cooling. To achieve all of these noble goals you need to boil for at least 60 minutes, and for lighter styles of beers a longer boil of 90 minutes is desirable. Control Fermentation Temperature – Though few brewers have dedicated fermentation refrigerators, there are simple methods you can use to maintain a constant temperature for ales during fermentation. The best technique I’ve seen is to pick a cool, dry area in your home and then wrap the fermentor in wet towels and place a fan in front of it. Wet the towels every 12 hours or so, and you should get a steady fermentation temperature in the 66-68F range. Most brewing shops sell stick-on thermometers that can be attached to your fermentation vessel to monitor the temperature. Switch to a Full Batch Boil – Boiling all of your wort will benefit to your beer. If you are only boiling 2-3 gallons of a 5 gallon batch, then you are not getting the full benefits of a 60-90 minute boil. The purchase of a 7-12 gallon brew pot and (highly recommended) outdoor propane burner (which will make the spouse happy as you now brew outside) are great intermediate steps for moving to all-grain brewing and the full boils will improve your beer. Use Glass Fermenters – Glass carboys (or stainless) fermenters offer significant advantages over the typical plastic bucket. First they are much easier to clean and sterilize. Second, glass (or stainless) provides a 100% oxygen barrier, where plastic buckets are porous and can leak oxygen if stored for long periods. Third, plastic fermenters often have very poor seals around the top of the bucket and can leak in both directions making it difficult to determine when fermentation has actually completed. A 5 gallon glass carboy will do the job better, and is available at a very reasonable price from most stores. Make a Yeast Starter – While pitching directly from a tube or packet of liquid yeast is OK, your beer will ferment better if you make a yeast starter first. Boil up a small amount of dried malt extract in a quart of water with 1/4 oz of hops. Cool it well and then pitch your yeast into it 2-3 days before you brew. Install some foil or an airlock over it and place it in a cool dark location. When brew day comes, pitching your starter will result in a quicker start and less risk of infection or off flavors. Make Long Term Purchases – You may have started brewing with an off-the-shelf kit, but if you enjoy brewing then you are best off making long term purchases rather than a series of short term purchases. For example, early on I bought a 3 gallon pot, then a 5 gallon pot, then an 8 gallon enamel pot and finally a 9 gallon stainless. It would have been much cheaper to jump to the 9 gallon stainless after the 3 gallon pot. Similarly I’ve had several sizes of immersion chillers, finally settling on a two stage 3/8? diameter copper coil. If you instead make long term purchases (a good pot, a good chiller, glass carboys, a nice mash tun/cooler) you will save a lot of money in the long run. Posted in General Beer Related Brewing an Irish Stout Beer Recipe Published November 2, 2011 | By Dennis 1/12/12 We would like to Thank Beer Smith for this Article The History of Stout Irish Stout traces its heritage back to Porter. As described previously in our article on the Porter Beer style, Porters were first commercially sold in the early 1730s in London and became popular in both Great Britain and Ireland. The word Stout was first associated with beer in a 1677 manuscript, with a “stout” beer being synonymous with “strong” beer (Ref: Wikipedia). In the 1700?s the term “Stout Porter” was widely used to refer to a strong version of Porter. The famous Guinness brewery in Ireland started brewing “Stout Porter” in 1820, though they previously brewed both ales and Porters. Around 1820, Stout also began to emerge as a distinctive style, using more dark brown malt and additional hops over popular porters of the time. At around the same time, black malt was invented and put to good use in Porters and Stout Porters. (Ref: Daniels) Throughout the 1800?s Stout continued to refer to “Strong” – therefore one could have “Stout Ales” as well as “Stout Porters”. However, by the end of the 19th century, “stout” became more closely associated only with dark Porter, eventually becoming a name for very dark beers. Traditional stouts of the 1800?s and early 1900?s differ considerably from their modern counterparts. The characteristic Roast Barley that gives Irish stout its dry roasted taste was not widely used until the early to mid 1900?s. Some Stouts had very high gravities – 1.070 to 1.090 for many recipes from 1858 cited by Ray Daniels. They also had very high hop rates, in some cases approaching 90 IBUs. As Pale ales and later European lagers became more popular in the 1800?s, sales of both Porter and Stout Porter declined, remaining popular in Ireland and a few other localities in the UK. The definitive modern Irish Stout is Guinness Extra Stout. Other popular commercial stouts include Beamish Irish Stout and Murphy’s Irish Stout. Founded in 1759, Guinness brewery at St James gate in Dublin Ireland has operated continuously for over 250 years under family ownership. Guinness is a classic Irish or Dry Stout style, with a distinctive dry, almost coffee like flavor derived from Roasted Barley. Guinness is brewed in two main forms, the domestic draft version having much lower alcohol content (3.9%) than the export bottled version (6%). (Ref: Daniels) A number of other stout styles are popular including (Russian) Imperial Stout, Oatmeal Stout, Milk Stout, Chocolate Stout. However for today, we will stick with the classic Irish Stout style. Designing and Brewing an Irish Stout Irish Stout has an original gravity in the 1.035-1.050 range, with domestic versions being at the low end and export versions at the high end of that range. Bitterness is moderate, but must balance the strong flavor of the dark grains used. It should be hopped at a moderate rate of 1 IBU per point of OG (so a beer with 1.040 OG should have 40 IBUs). Color is an extremely dark brown that looks black in the glass – from 35-200 SRM. Traditionally Irish Stout is served at very low carbonation (1.6-2.0 volumes) and often served warm. The key ingredient in a classic Irish Stout is Roasted Barley. Roast Barley gives Irish Stout its classic dry coffee-like flavor, deep dark color, and white foamy head. Unlike other dark malts, Roast Barley is made from unmalted barley grain that is roasted at high temperature while being lightly sprayed with water to prevent it from burning. Roast Barley is intensely dark, around 500-550 L, but amazingly the unmalted barley produces a white head on the beer as opposed to the darker head made by other malts. In many commercial dry stouts, Roast Barley is the only specialty grain used. For a Dry Irish Stout, Roast Barley makes up around 10% of the grain bill. Those that don’t use Roast Barley will almost always used Black malt as a substitute. Irish Stout is famously full bodied, so the second most popular ingredient is a specialty grain to enhance the body of the beer. Guinness uses Flaked Barley at a proportion of around 10% of the grain bill. Flaked Barley adds significant body and mouthfeel to the beer, but it must be mashed. If you are a malt extract brewer, crystal malt or Carapils would be a good substitute for Flaked Barley. Many award winning all grain stout recipies also use oatmeal (6% of grain bill range) or wheat (6% range) either in place of flaked barley or as an addition to further enhance the body of the finished beer. Other popular specialty grains include black and chocolate malts, though these are used in small proportions primarily to add complexity to the flavor. (Ref: Daniels) English pale malt (or Pale Malt Extract) makes up the bulk (60-70%) of the grain bill. For all-grain brewers, a medium to full bodied mash profile is desirable. A single step infusion mash is sufficient for well modified English malts. Conversion mash temperatures in the 153-156 F range are appropriate. The most popular Irish Stout hops by far is East Kent Goldings, though other English hops such as Fuggle, Challenger, Northdown and Target. American varieties such as Cascade are sometimes used by American microbreweries. Traditionally a single hop addition is made at the beginning of the boil for bitterness. Hop aroma is not a significant factor, so aroma hops are rarely added to Irish Stout. Irish Ale yeast is traditionally used in Irish Stout. An ideal yeast would yield an attenuation around 76% for dryness, but many Irish ale yeasts yield a lower attenuation. Some brewers select neutral yeasts with a higher attenuation to achieve a drier flavor profile. London and Whitbread yeasts are also popular choices. Some Irish Stout recipes, including Guinness use a small amount of soured beer to add a little extra bite and flavor. To make soured beer, pull a small amount from the unfermented wort and let it naturally sour over several days by leaving it exposed to air. Boil the sour beer sterilize it thoroughly and then cool it and add it to your fermenter well before bottling. Finally, few stout fans will forget the smooth creamy head that a draft pint of Guinness has on it. The secret is that Guinness on tap is not served under CO2 alone, but has a mix of CO2 and nitrogen. The nitrogen gives it the extra creamy long lasting head. You can serve kegged beer with nitrogen and CO2 at home, but it requires a separate tank of nitrogen in addition to a tank of CO2 and also a special “stout tap” to mix the gas when serving. Irish Stout Recipes Here are some sample recipes of Irish Stouts, as well as a few other Stout styles thrown in for variety: All Grain Irish Stout Recipes: Dry Irish Stout Culver City Stout Keep It Simple Stout Extract Irish Stout Recipes: Nitro Powered Stout Guinness Extra Stout (re-mixed -clone) Culver City Stout Luck O’the Irish Stout Posted in General Beer Related Spam Blocked 8,859 spam blocked by Akismet Upcoming Events No events. Downloads Main Downloads Page Membership Application Club Bylaws Pour us a Beer! 381 Beers Received Top Downloads The Stout Palace own Recipes (1466) Club Membership Application (1094) Bear Creek by-laws (1054) Beer SYMPTOM (760) Hops 101 (704) All Grain Page 2 (638) Recipe Page 3 (591) Recipe Page 2 (588) Recipe Page 1 (564) Home Brewing Log (560) All Grain Page 1 (529) All Grain Page 3 (496) Brew Day Timer (490) Brewing Grains 101 (487) Club Rules Of Conduct (462) 2014 COHO Spring Fling Homebrew Competition Flyer (458) You know you`r a homebrewer if (434) Draught Beer Quality Manual (393) Brewsheet Log (383) 640 Beer Recpie (381) AHA/BJCP ENTRY/RECIPE FORM (298) All Grain Brewing All Grain Recipes All Grain Recipes 2 All Grain Recipes 3 Batch Sparging vs. Fly Sparging Beer Definitions Beer Description Beer Haze Beer head formation and retention Brewing Faqs Brewing Grains Brewing Terms – A Glossary of Brewing Related Definitions Dried Yeast Extract 1 Recipes Extract 2 Recipes Extract 3 Recipes Extract 4 Recipes Glossary for Beer Terms Used Growing Hops At Home History of Malting Home Brew Beer Leagues, Clubs & Associations Home Brewery Automation Hops Hops 2 How To Brew Your First Beer I’m noticing these white blotches with what looks like a spider web Sanitation in the Home Brewery Sparge tips: Specialty Grains TastyBrew Humor Terms Used When Judging Beer The Cornelius Keg System The History 0f Beer The History of Beer in America The Importance of Rapid Cooling After The Boil The Mashing Process/All-Grain Brewing Troubleshooting Water Lost in Spent Grains What can I do to get the most production out of my hop plants? What do I need to know about high-output burners? What is a mash/lauter tun? How does it work? What is diacetyl? What Is Home Brewing? What To Expect During Fermentation White Labs Ale Yeast White Labs Belgian Yeasts White Labs Lager Yeasts White Labs Wheat Yeasts Why does all grain brewing take longer then extract? Why does my efficiency keep turning out low? Why does the strike water of 170 °F not damage the grains’ enzymes? Wyeast Brettanomyuces & Lactic Cultures Wyeast Liquid Ale Yeasts Wyeast Liquid Lager Yeasts Wyeast Liquid Wheat BeerYeasts Yeast Care Yeast Starter Recent Posts Brew Stand New Update from meeting Jeff`s Big Brew Results june 1 Jeff Big Brew Rally Your Homebrew Club at Falling Sky University of California BeerSmith Home Brewing News Ten Top Tips for Home Brewing Beer Brewing an Irish Stout Beer Recipe Archives October 2014 June 2014 May 2014 February 2013 November 2011 Copyright ? 2016 The Stout Palace. All Rights Reserved. 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